What Happened to My Hiking When I Quit Smoking

By Kieran James Cunningham

Hiking in the Bernina Range, Italy

“I’ve never seen any sahibs smoking at this altitude,” said Dawa, the Sherpa porter I’d first met in Kathmandu and spent close to a month tailing up and down the Khumbu Valley as he prepared for fall expeditions and helped his cousin run his lodge at Gorak Shep, the last stop before Everest Base Camp.